Weekend destination: Bratislava

With a population of around 450,000, Bratislava is one of Europe’s smallest capitals and therefore often dismissed as no more than a fun-sized version of Prague. Many travelers merely spend a tenuous few minutes in the city as it passes by their hermetically sealed Euro City train en route to Budapest or beyond. Yet Bratislava has a complex, multi-cultural story. It was a German and Hungarian city long before becoming the Slovak capital – relatively recently – upon the foundation of Czechoslovakia in 1918. And while the Old Town (Staré mesto) may be smaller than that of larger cities, and Bratislava Castle and Cathedral more modest than their Prague counterparts, the Slovak capital has its own particular draws.

Public transportation in Bratislava comprises the above modes during the day and buses during the night. As the center is very compact, the best way to see the city is on foot. However, if you need to travel further distances, you’ll need to use the public transport network, operated by Dopravný podnik Bratislava (www.dpb.sk). As in Prague, a flat fare system applies, and Bratislava is divided into two ticket zones. Bear in mind that inspectors don’t take kindly to simpering tourists pleading ignorance if caught traveling without a ticket.

A good starting point is the austere Castle (Hrad), which broods over much of the rest of Bratislava. The building is mentioned in records as far back to 970, although a medieval castle was later built by Emperor Sigismund as a fortress against the Hussites. The building was burned down in 1811 by drunken Austrian soldiers and later restored under Communism. Since 2008, the Castle has been undergoing another, more sensitive overhaul, and efforts have been made to integrate it with its surroundings and make them more attractive too.

So far, the most obvious sign of progress is the Castle facades, which have been repainted a glowing white. At the time of writing, the Castle was closed as part of the restoration, although it’s worth ascending to the entrance to enjoy the superb views over the city, especially to the futuristic New Bridge (Nový most, formerly Most SNP) spanning the wide River Danube. The sleek single span suspension bridge, incorporating a flying-saucer shaped structure (containing a restaurant) perched at the pylon apex, has become a symbol of the Slovak capital.

Near the southern end of Ventúrska, on the right, is the Academia Istropolitana, Slovakia’s first university and established in 1465; exhibitions are sometimes held in the chapel in the complex. Further up the street, a passage off Michalská leads through Klariská to the Gothic convent of St Klara, whose modest spire is one of the best examples of Gothic architecture in the city. The streets around the convent are old Bratislava at its most evocative. Back on Michalská, you’ll soon reach the St Michael’s Tower, which affords superb views over the city center and can be ascended with a ticket to the Museum of Weaponry (Múzeum zbraní), housed in the tower.

As you walk around old Bratislava, you’ll notice lots of small open spaces. Hlavné námestie, a short hop from Panská Street, is the most central and, given its name, is unexpectedly small. Despite or perhaps partly because of this, Hlavné námestie oozes charm, with a distinctly Austrian flavor – unsurprisingly, as Vienna is very close. Points of interest include the Old Town Hall (Stará radnica), an appealing fusion of Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque and home to the recently renovated Museum of the History of Bratislava (Múzeum dejín mesta). Another architectural treat awaits around the corner, at the elegant Primate’s Palace (Primaciálny pálac), famed among other things for its Hall of Mirrors.

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The southern edge of the New Town is roughly defined by Hviezdoslavovo námestie, a long boulevard rather than a square. Here you’ll find a good range of eating and drinking options, and the nearby streets form a sort of cultural quarter. The old building of the Slovak National Theater (Slovenské národni divadlo) straddles Hviezoslavovo námestie, and close by are the Slovak National Gallery (Slovenská národná galéria) and the Slovak National Museum (Slovenské národné múzeum). The Slovak National Gallery in Bratislava is split between three buildings along or close to Rázusovo nábrežie, and features Slovak art from all periods and art from other countries too. The Bratislava headquarters of the Slovak National Museum, on Vajanské nábrežie, have a diverse collection of permanent exhibitions.