Hradec Králové

Cultured Out
Now you are on your way. If you take a number 3, 12 or 16 you can get off at Muzeum and check out the Museum of East Bohemia. The building contains a permanent exhibition with minerals as well as history of the area. Until January 31, 2010 there is also an exhibition of Czech Art Nouveau with fine examples of ceramics, jewelry and furniture. The displays were perfect in that they gave you a taste without overwhelming you. What’s more, the building itself is worth visiting. It is a great example of modernism with imposing semi-nude statues flanking the stairs, a fountain and tastefully decorated interior with ornate plaster, stain glass and mosaics by Czech artist Jan Preisler. The interior is so well preserved you feel that you are heading back to the beginning of the century to a time of class and elegance.

However, I opted for the medieval themed restaurant U Rytíře. The fairly wide range of food and cold Pilsner made up for the fact it was not totally authentic. (I don’t think medieval women wore Crocs.) From the meals, which included pasta, fish, game or 200g, 300g or 400g steaks on the grill, I went with the pork knuckle and toast with cranberries, pears and grilled cheese for a starter. The cranberries were a little too sweet to make this work, but the knuckle was as fine as it gets. The meat was tender and smoky and there was a lot of it. Even with the crackling cut away there was too much for one.

Legging It
After such a meal, I needed a walk. Being on the Elbe, Hradec Králové has plenty of places to stroll. You can head away from the church down the square to Žižka’s Park. From there you can head to Šimek’s Park. From here you can head to the Elbe and turn left toward the city baths. Or you can go left toward Jírasek’s Park. The park is at the confluence of the Elbe and Orlice Rivers. It’s also a good place to chill out, especially after a big meal. Nor does anyone seem to mind if you start exercising; if the locals I saw practicing martial arts were anything to go by.