Markets in Prague and Beyond

Expats.cz goes shopping for fresh food and old curios

Ryan Scott

Written by Ryan Scott Published on 06.05.2010 12:26:07 (updated on 06.05.2010) Reading time: 6 minutes

It seems markets are making a come back to Prague. What are typical to many other European cities haven’t been so common here. Hopefully, this is set to change with a string of farmers’ and flea markets opening up around the city.

Holešovice
Vegetable Market
Operating Times: Monday – Saturday 7:00am – 8:00pm
Location: Bubenské nábřeží 13, Prague 7
How to get there: Take the C Line to Vltavská and then tram 1, 3, 5 or 25 in the direction of the River Vltava one stop to “Pražská tržnice.” The market is opposite the stop.

This is not strictly speaking a farmers’ market, at least not usually. What it lacks in authenticity it makes up for in ease of getting there. The vegetable market is located in building 22. (See the map on the website.) Inside are a number of stalls selling mostly Czech produce with some from other countries. Prices range from reasonable to ludicrously cheap for produce like potatoes and onions, if bought in bulk.  Apart from fruit and veg you will also find fresh honey, saplings ready for planting, potted herbs and Russian sweets. Outside, a butcher near sign 27 stocks some quite yummy homemade smoked pork sausages. He’s the one with a picture of Husak on the back wall. For those who want a more authentic farmers’ market, one is scheduled at this location on 22nd May.

Dejvice
Farmers’ Market at Kulaťák
Operating Times: 8am – 12pm, every second Saturday of the month (except state holidays)
How to get there: Take the A line to Dejvická station and exit via the stop for the airport bus. Otherwise check the Prague transport system for one of the many buses or trams which stop at “Dejvická”.

If you want to check out Prague’s newest market be prepared to queue because many other people have the same idea. But your patience will pay off. Apart from getting to sample a market atmosphere close to the center, you will get to try some delicious produce coming from the Czech countryside. The cheeses from the Držovice farm are especially worth lining up for. If you are pressed for time, or are the impatient type, there are packed baskets for 340 CZK (195 CZK for the groceries and 145 CZK for the basket). Or just go with the flow and pick up a very tasty gluten-free pork and herb klobása – much tastier than their greasy cousins on Wenceslas Square. For those with a sweet tooth, try the many pastries on offer. Best of all, there’s a lot of space around the market to stretch out and savor your goodies.

Klánovice
Operating Times: Every Saturday 8am – 12pm, April to November
How to get there: Take the S1 from Masarykovo Nádraží to Praha Klánovice then take the 261 from stop Smiřická for one stop to Smržovská. The markets are located behind the Masaryk Elementary Schools (Masarykovy Základní školy) at 200 Slavětínská Street.

Far less crowded than the Dejvice market but a little further out, these markets make up for the lack of range of products with a more relaxed atmosphere. Given the goods available, you won’t miss the huge range. The pick of the bunch is the bakery offering foot wide round Italian-style loaves – crusty on the outside, white and fluffy in the middle. They also sell a range of cookies. I would also recommend the fresh juice stand, which sells bottles and BiB of apple, pear and vegetable juice, all 100 percent. There are also snacks available like freshly fried potato crisps and frgál (the other name for koláč).

Dolní Počernice
Operating time: Every Friday 1pm – 6pm
How to get there: Take the 163 bus from Depo Hostivář and get off at stop Stará obec.  The market is beside the Dolní Počernice regional office.

This is another new market organized by the people behind the market at Klánovice. It was reported in the press that the market will offer similar products as the market in Klánovice.

Roztoky
Operating Times: Once in spring and autumn
How to get there: Train to Roztoky and then take the 340 or 350 bus up the hill one stop to Tyršovo náměstí then walk down Masarykova street.

Given the infrequency, this market is more of an excuse for a trip than a chance to do your regular shopping. Apart from the vegetable stall, there are stalls with crafts, cloths, second hand books, refreshments and activities to keep the little ones occupied. There is not a wide selection, but the atmosphere in the garden is relaxed and very kid -friendly. The next market is planned for autumn, though a date has not been given. Check the website later in the year.

If you want to keep up-to-date with all that is happening market-wise in Prague and beyond, there is a FaceBook group Chceme v Praze farmářská tržiště! (We want farmers’ markets in Prague!).

Flea Markets

Kolbenova Flea Market
Operating times: 6am – 2pm Saturday and Sunday
How to get there: Take the B line to Kolbenova station or tram 19 to stop Kolbenova.
This has to be a collector´s paradise; hundreds of square meters of stalls selling everything from DVDs to weapons and everything in between. Be prepared to search because some of what is on offer is not long for the junk pile. However, if you’re into vintage electrical goods or antiques, this is the place for you. There is an entry fee of 20 CZK (or one euro) per person, 50 CZK for vehicles with up to five people and 100 CZK for vehicles with more than five. There is a booth to change money just before the turnstile.

Flea Markets at Námestí Míru and Nábřeží pod Palackého náměstím
Operating time: 9am – 3pm. The market at Námestí Míru is the last Saturday of the month. The market at Nábřeží pod Palackého náměstím starts from 1st May and is on the first and third Saturday of the month, with the exception of 5th June.
How to get there: For the markets at Námestí Míru take the A line to Námestí Míru station or trams 4, 10, 16 or 22. The markets are on the square beneath the church, St Ludmila’s. For the market  at Nábřeží pod Palackého náměstím take metro line B to Karlovo náměstí and leave via the Palackého náměstí exit or take trams 3, 7,16,17, 21 to stop Výtoň or Palackého náměstí.

This is a much smaller and, dare I say, hipper market right on Námestí Míru, perfect for a weekend distraction. There are fewer stalls so there’s less needless searching. However, it does mean the items are not as way out as what you’ll find at Kolbenova. It seems quite good for clothes, old LPs and curios. The same people have a market organized at nábřeží pod Palackého náměstím (the waterfront under Palacky’s square). Check the website for more details. You can also follow them on FaceBook.

Out of Prague

There are at least 3 flea markets organized. In Moravia, there are regular flea markets in Ostrava and Olomouc. The Association of Roztoky (Sdružení Roztoč) is also holding one on 22nd May. See above or check their website for further information.

If you have any other tips for markets, please leave them in the comments section below.

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