Prague's Historic Gardens

If you want to unwind for an hour or two and escape the bustle of daily life in Prague, the city’s many historic gardens are a perfect way of doing so. In this second part of our series on lesser known attractions in the Czech capital, we look at some of the best and most accessible historic gardens to enjoy.

You’ll find historic gardens all over Prague, but several are concentrated in Malá Strana, including the Velkopřevorská Gardens, Vojanovy Gardens, Vrtbovská Gardens, and Waldstein Gardens, and all feature this article. Despite being in the heart of tourist territory, these four green oases are relatively calm, perhaps partly because they are hidden behind walls or buildings. Further away, in Prague 6, the gardens at Břevnov Monastery have been recently re-opened after restoration.

Each garden has a very different character: the vast Waldstein Gardens are extensive and self-confident, as befits the famous historical figure who created them. In contrast, the Velkopřevorská Gardens have the dimensions of a large suburban back yard.

Prague is awash with EU funding, and utilitarian projects are often the recipients. The Břevnov Monastery Gardens is one of the exceptions; the first phase of the renewal of the gardens, which had been derelict for years, was completed earlier in 2012. Established in the 18th century, the gently sloping gardens run roughly along an east-west axis and are punctuated by a number of features such as the once dilapidated orangery (Oranžérie).

Břevnov Monastery is just a few tram stops away from Prague Castle, but is located in a suburban setting; the contrast between the pristine white Baroque monastery and the paneláky nearby is striking. Although the church is close to the constantly-busy artery of Patočkova, the Gardens are tucked away behind the monastery. They open as early at 06:45, which makes them perfect for some quiet morning strolls.

Everyone knows about the ever-transforming John Lennon Wall at Kampa, but many of the visitors who come to admire it don’t step through the doorway and see what lies behind the other side – the modest but calming Velkopřevorská Gardens.

By far the grandest of the historic gardens featured in this article, the Waldstein Gardens, are a huge surprise. You could easily walk past them and never know they existed, hidden as they are behind a long blank wall close to Malostranská metro station.

But once you step through the wooden door on Letenská, you’re transported back a few centuries into a world of formal layouts, neat paths, statues and fountains. But this harmonious, peaceful environment hidden behind a simple wooden door belies major upheaval. In the 17th century, the famous military leader Albrecht von Waldstein had several old palaces demolished to make way for the gardens and the palace named after him. The palace (Valdštejnský palac) now houses the senate of the Czech parliament.

At the heart of the Waldstein Gardens and the most impressive feature of the complex is the huge Sala Terrena, an Italianate loggia, in front of which stretches an avenue of statues, the originals of which were stolen by the Swedes in 1648.

Like the nearby Waldstein Gardens, the extensive Vojanovy sady are also hidden behind a long wall, although the open entrance makes their presence more obvious. They used to be a monastic garden belonging to the Carmelite order, but today they’re a favorite spot for relaxation. Thanks to a diverse collection of mature trees, the Gardens offer refuge from the summer sun.

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