On the Right Track

Perhaps it´s my own misplaced romanticism—or the fact that I´m more vertically gifted than others and subsequently need more leg room—but I find travelling by train to be the best way of getting around the Czech Republic. In the last few years I´ve probably traveled over 15,000 kilometers by train, and I´ve rarely had a bad experience. Although there was the time when I was coming back from Žilina in Slovakia and discovered, to my dismay, that not only my seat reservation, but indeed the carriage itself, did not exist. I spent the six-hour journey to Prague at the “bar” in the dining car, drinking warm beer and trying not to slide off my stool whenever the train rounded a corner. These things happen.

There are several useful websites with train information and timetables in Czech, English and German. The official Czech Railways (CD) website is at www.cd.cz. Additionally, you can compare train and bus schedules at www.vlak-bus.cz or visit the even more sophisticated transport site at www.idos.cz, which allows you to search train-boat-plane-mass urban transport connections (but not dirigible connections, sadly). All three sites use the same basic search engine for trains, so if you´re only planning a simple rail journey any of them will suffice. (Note: be sure to enter www.idos.cz rather than www.idos.com or you´ll find yourself spirited away to the International Dutch Oven Society homepage.)

Basically there are seven different types of domestic and international trains to choose from. The slower Os and Sp trains are the local yokels of the Czech railway system, connecting small towns and villages with larger transport hubs. The Os trains are often slow enough to get on and off without the train actually stopping and are frequented by weekend cyclists, grandmothers popping over to the next village for shopping and the occasional bored goat. Nevertheless, if you have some time to spare, these journeys can be quite scenic. Chugging around the Beroun valley on a sunny Saturday is a pleasant way to get out of the city for a day.

A standard second-class ticket can be used on all of the above-mentioned trains, but if you decide to opt for a bit more speed and comfort you´ll have to pay a supplementary charge (currently 60 CZK). This applies to domestic IC (InterCity) and international EC (EuroCIty) trains. EC trains usually have a dining car where passengers can stock up on overpriced sandwiches and petrified pastries using a variety of currencies (euros are always welcome). Although you can pay the supplementary charge on the train itself, it´s advisable to plan ahead and ask for the EC (ecečka) fare when you buy your ticket. The ticket inspectors—who are often even crustier than the sandwiches—will appreciate it.

The newest recruit to the Czech railways pantheon is the fabled SC (SuperCIty) Pendolino connecting Prague and Ostrava via Pardubice and Olomouc. The Pendolino, an Italian train with state-of-the-art “tilt” technology allowing it to take curves as smoothly as a Lamborghini, was heralded by Czech railway officials as the last word in speed and luxury. However, the Pendolino came complete with an Italian work ethic, and after a highly publicized debut it promptly broke down. Only recently has the Pendolino been put back on the timetable with a limited-time 20% “sorry about that” discount. Frankly, it seems more trouble and expense than it´s worth, reaching Ostrava only thirty minutes faster than the express train. Maybe you get complimentary peanuts

The Card-Z is the most useful discount card for the average traveler. All you need to get one is 200 CZK, a tasteful passport photo and identification. The card is valid for one year and usually amounts to a 20% discount depending on the length of the journey. For example, the EC fare for a single journey from Prague to Ostrava is currently 484 CZK, but only 320 CZK with the card. As you can see, the Card-Z pays for itself after a few journeys, and it´s worth looking into even if you´re not a regular train user.

Additionally, Czech railways offer special transferable passes valid for two days, a week, a month, or three months. A weekend pass (SONE+) is also available for unlimited travel for one day (Saturday or Sunday) on all of the Os (local) trains within the network. All of these passes can be used in Austria, Germany and Poland as well. And Czech railways will even help you rent a bicycle and have it waiting for you at your destination. Further information on all of these offers can be found on the CD website (www.cd.cz).

Even if you only use the Czech Republic as a base for international train journeys, it´s worthwhile looking into the various discounts offered. For instance, If you buy a ticket to Krakow you´ll pay quite a bit less if you have the Card-Z or KMB. More importantly, if you´re planning to buy your ticket at Hlavní Nadraží, I would advise skipping the usual international ticket windows. Instead, head upstairs and take a right to the Wasteels travel agency. It´s generally a more pleasant experience. The staff speak English and are much more helpful than their counterparts below. They even look healthier.