"Chic art nouveau façades and loft conversions alternate with shabby tenements. Old-timers saunter with their dogs while multinational office workers grab Vietnamese sandwiches or Georgian khachapuri before dashing back to gleaming converted factories. Delis and espresso bars abound, plus a square under a lofty neo-romanesque church hosts a market. And the honey-coloured Negrelli Viaduct, recently renovated, will soon house shops and cultural spaces under its arches."