Villages: Koloděje & Běchovice

This week, I headed east out of the city, to the small neighbouring villages of Koloděje and Běchovice.

Originally, in the Middle Ages, Koloděje got its name from wheelwrights (as do Czechs with the surname ‘Kolář‘) who settled by the ford over the river Rokytka, on what was known as the ‘Moravian Route‘, stretching from Prague eastwards. Today, Prague is, like every capital city, expanding in fits and bursts. As it does so, the borders are sometimes redefined to take in previously independent areas. In 1974 this meant that the historic village of Koloděje found itself within Prague city, and in 2001 it became Prague 21. Fortunately, it seems to be only the administration that has changed – the village itself is still a quiet, self-contained place with its own identity.

The first gothic fortress was built on the site in the 14th-century, and subsequently remodelled in the early 18th-century into the Baroque castle that you can now see. These days, visitors can only peer through the impressive gates, as the chateau and its extensive park are owned by the state and used by the Czech government for ceremonial purposes, foreign delegations and occasional VIP guests. Hang out in front of it long enough and you will see the likes of Topolánek and other Heads of State as they are driven in for meetings. It is said that it was a favourite weekend venue for Paroubek.

The castle has a fairly macabre recent history, too, as it was here that political prisoners were held and possibly tortured during the Stalinist Trials in the 1950s. It was also the residence of president T.G. Masaryk in 1919. Unfortunately it is rarely open to the public now due to security issues, but you can still watch the peacocks strutting around the fountain in the front courtyard.

If you prefer to get around on two wheels instead of four legs, I recommend a quick trip to the little sv. Markéta chapel above the villages of Hájek and Královice, just south of Koloděje. There are some pretty footpaths around here, too. You can also find some picturesque views to the south-west of Koloděje, around the Podleský rybník. For those more into racket sports, a tennis centre is currently under construction in Koloděje, or you can make use of the squash courts in either Hájek or Dubeč.

If your fridge is empty, you can try the potraviny in the village centre. This also sells take-out food (tip: try the potato salad). However, if you want greater variety, the nearest supermarkets (Lidl, Penny Market and Albert) are in Újezd nad Lesy, the next village to the north of Koloděje.

The great advantage of life in a village is the peace and security. You soon get to know the people on your street, as well as their children and pets (for better or worse!). People look out for one another. Cars are not broken into so often. Neighbours exchange gardening tips and pass on gossip and advice, and life is lived outdoors much more than in the city‘s residential areas. “Běchovice is a village where everyone knows everyone,” says Jiří Santolík, the Mayor of Běchovice. The same could be said of Koloděje. Or of just about any small village, in fact, which has to be one of the charms of village life.

By car/bike – Scenic route – From the Europark shopping centre, Prague Štěrboholy, turn onto Ústřední road. In Štěrboholy village, turn right onto K Lesíku, towards Dubeč village. Continue on this road, passing through Dubeč, for around 5km. When you see the castle walls, turn left and you will enter Koloděje village.