Relive the Golden Age of Train Travel

Posázavský Pacifik is the name for a recreational historical route following the Sázava River, which courses through the hilly countryside of Central Bohemia, southeast of Prague. The route’s name originates in the tramping sub-culture. Various cottages along the route were named after places from the Pacific Coast of America. I didn’t see any remnants of these, though I could have missed them. Nor did I see any Czech “tramps”.

In their place, I saw a lot of train enthusiasts who snapped and filmed the locomotive pulling in, billowing smoke and jetting steam. I was to see many more of them waiting for the train along its path. Unsurprisingly, there were a lot of families, too. The old train is a big hit with kids. Where else can they (almost) hang from the windows and wave wildly to total strangers who happily wave back? In fact, riding with the window down, one’s face to the wind, seems an almost mandatory part of the trip. The fact that kids up to six years of age travel free is another draw card.

The steam engine can manage up to 90 kph though the journey was much more leisurely. We passed homes and cottages, where people stood and waved and filmed. Much is made about Czech “unfriendliness” or “reserve”. But dotted along the tracks I saw broad smiles and people enthusiastically waving. It was hard not to notice how this old train seemed to touch people. Maybe it represents a simpler time for them. Maybe it’s the novelty of something quite old. Not that I spent the whole trip pondering national characteristics, I spent quite a bit of time zoning out and just enjoying the cool air pouring into the window, with a little smoke from the stack.

At our destination, a fire engine was waiting to fill the locomotive’s 7,000 liter boiler. Our stop was a good chance to see just how many people were involved in running the machine. Apart from the driver, I counted about five other sooty-faced engineers, most dressed in overalls from the forties, tending to the train. One even added oil to the wheels with an old-fashioned oil can. I hoped to speak with the chief driver but he was reluctant and after promising to answer some questions he wandered off.

Fortunately, a group of three young volunteer conductors were happy to speak with me. When I asked why they did it, one responded that trains had been a love through his whole life. Assuming I was disappointed with such a succinct answer, he quickly said that his reason was that simple. His fellow volunteer added that working on the train gave him an opportunity to connect with the past and share that connection with other people.

All three expressed a desire to one day drive the train. They explained that quite a bit of training is involved. A person has to have a background in electrical engineering and be in good physical shape. In the meantime, they were happy to work as conductors in their free-time.

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