REVIEW: Honest and delicious dining in Prague's most tourist-choked district

Finding a decent dining spot in Prague’s bustling tourist zone can feel next to impossible. Most places are too pricey, gimmicky, overcooked, or crowded these days. There are, of course, exceptions. But when you come across a winner – one with good food, good service, and a good atmosphere slightly off the beaten path – it’s hard not to want to keep this hidden gem under wraps.

That said, ŪVOZ more than deserves a shoutout. This cozy little wood-paneled nook quietly opened three months ago at the base of Prague Castle with a simple premise: tastefully prepared Czech cuisine in a chill, unpretentious setting.      

ŪVOZ (in Czech, a section of street cut into the terrain) is an offshoot of the nearby Tāst restaurant, which debuted two years early with the same no-fuss-no-muss concept of delivering top-quality meals in a sleek, intimate space along an unassuming side street in Malá Strana. 

The approach, an instant hit with locals and tourists, is one the owners are hoping to emulate up the hill at ŪVOZ, which offers a similar vibe as well as a steadfast dedication toward fresh, seasonal ingredients and traditional home-cooked dishes.               

ŪVOZ is roughly a 10-minute walk uphill from Malostranské náměstí; its namesake street veering slightly to the left of the roadway leading to the Castle. So nondescript is the outside signage, that it’s easy to mistake the hospůda next door for the restaurant – a faux pas we made on our recent visit.

The decor is defined by rustic earth tones and sharp angles – wood-paneled walls, shelving and floors, hanging light fixtures. Fresh flower arrangements on the window ledges offer nice bursts of color.  

The entrance is dominated by a wood bar that stretches the length of the room and has beer on tap from a small brewery in Kamenice nad Lipou. 

Two small back dining rooms hold a smattering of tables. There are a few sidewalk tables, refreshing on a cool summer evening, though the walkway is a bit cramped, and the park car in front of our table felt a little too close for comfort. Rain, unfortunately, forced us back inside midway through our starters. 

Unlike at Tāst, there is no open kitchen plan here. The chef uses a shrill corner buzzer to alert the wait staff when meals are ready to serve – a slightly jarring feature that feels more in line with a busy neighborhood diner than the cozy ambiance ŪVOZ is promoting.          

The limited menu is, as promised, traditional Czech cuisine. You’ll find classic steak tartare, Bohemian trout, rabbit ham and duck leg confit with red cabbage and dumplings. In other words, a lot of meat. Perhaps not the spot for vegetarians, though the kitchen can tweak the menu with 24-hour advanced warning.

A generous pork schnitzel with a creamy potato puree and cucumber salad followed. We also tried guinea fowl, with bell pepper and potato gnocchi. Our meals were paired, on the advice of the waiter, with Chardonnay, Sůkal and Sauvignon blanc both from Czech vineyards.

The kitchen takes care to deliver, and the results will leave you more than satisfied. There were no misses here, with the exception of perhaps the cucumber salad which was a bit too sour for our taste.

The biggest hit, however, came at the end. Dessert: Cottage cheese dumplings with rhubarb and strawberries floored with butter, marzipan, and nuts. Do not pass on this. Even if you think you are full. This little bowl of pure joy must be savored to the last fork scrape.

Being off-the-beaten path might be a difficult selling point in this case. While the food is boast-worthy and the staff knowledgeable and welcoming, the location isn’t an easy trek for your average night out on the town. The stretch of street doesn’t get much tourist footfall either, despite its landmark surroundings.

We appeared to be the first ones in on the recent Friday evening we popped in. By the time we left, only two other tables had been filled.

It’s time to start spreading the news.