3 Glorious Spring Hikes

It’s another 2.5 km through the woods to the village of Malé Kyšice, where Pension Lika has several nice tables outside and cold Pilsner Urquell and Gambrinus on tap for refreshment (as well as a standard pub menu of light Czech bites). If you find this only increases your thirst, it’s only 1 km farther along the red to U Netopyra, a slightly run-down pub pouring Staropramen and Svijany (on occasion) that has a tree-covered garden out front that fills up with ramblers and cyclists passing through.

Another option that clocks in at around 17.5 km in total follows the same path from Unhošť to where it intersects with the red trail, but instead of turning right, it turns left to continue through the Loděnice valley. Following the stream along the red, the path winds through several villages with several options for refreshment along the way, before culminating in the town of Loděnice. Loděnice has easy bus connections to Zličín and trains to Smíchovské nádraží, and about 2 km from the end is the Caravan Camp Valek, where you can either pitch a tent or rent a three-bed cabin for 240 CZK per person per night – or simply jump into the outdoor swimming pool to cool off before heading back into Prague. Map: Czech Tourist Club No. 36, Okolí Prahy západ

This is a beautiful route through rolling Central Bohemian countryside that can easily be done in one day, or it can be combined with an overnight stay in Křivoklát. The whole trail is about 18 kilometers long, but there’s also a little putt-putt train that runs between the two royal towns, so if your feet get tired (or if you don’t want to face the steep uphill climb after the village of Pustověty) it’s easy enough to hop on for the short ride to Křivoklát. The are a few ups and downs in the hills coming up to Pustověty, as well.

To get to Rakovnik, there are direct trains from Masarykovo nádraží and buses from Zličín; by train it takes about 1.5 hours and by bus just under an hour. If you get there early enough, Rakovnik is worth a look around: Its well-preserved historical Old Town has lots of charm and few tourists. Leave plenty enough time for the hike, however, and note that there’s only one refreshment option along the way, in Pustověty, after about 6 km, so bring plenty of water. There’s a nice variety of views along the trail, too, with several sweeping panoramas of the hilly landscape.

Save your appetite for a meal, though, at U Jelena, a rustic pension and restaurant just below the Křivoklát Castle that specializes in game dishes – the venision goulash, in particular, is especially divine, although can sell out quickly on busy days. The restaurant has a lovely shady outdoor terrace, too, and a room in the pension costs 1,000 CZK a night for two; otherwise, trains head back to Prague, with a change in Beroun, pretty regularly. Make sure to stop in at the castle, too, before heading home, either for an official tour or a free-of-charge wander round the courtyard and battlements. Map: Czech Tourist Club No.33 Křivoklátsko a Rakovnicko