Brno

The Czech Republic’s second largest city isn’t just a smaller version of Prague. The city has its own distinct atmosphere and attractions, if you’re willing to spend the time exploring them. From Špilberk Castle to the modern Villa Tugendhat to the city´s many restaurants and bars, you will find something to stimulate and perhaps even entertain you.

The castle was built in 13th century but has gone through many changes over time, starting as a royal castle until it was finally used as a prison by the Nazis during the Second World War. The history of the castle, as well as the city, is part of the City of Brno Museum. Those displays dealing with the castle’s penal past are both grim and affecting. Criminals and political prisoners were held and tortured here under the Hapsburgs until Joseph II abolished torture in 1776. Some of the implements used are on display.

From the French Revolution onwards the castle increasingly became a prison for those who wished to see the principals of liberty and national sovereignty spread to the Austrian-Hungarian Empire. French, Italian, Hungarian and Polish agitators were all interned here. When the Nazis took control of the region Špilberk’s role continued. The displays use contemporary documents to create a feel for the time. Information sheets in English give you brief and readable accounts.

Perhaps the most moving of the displays are the letters sent to the prisoners and the pens the inmates fashioned from fish bone to write forbidden letters with ink made from whatever material came to hand, including soot, brick dust and rhubarb root. It might be worth seeing this display last as it certainly casts an eerie pall over the whole building. Unfortunately, I didn’t know this beforehand.

The remainder of the exhibition is relatively sedate. It covers the city´s religious, industrial and military history. Military enthusiasts will be impressed by the collection of flint-lock guns, halberds and a sword so big it couldn’t possibly be lifted even in two hands. Admittedly, additional historical information would improve an understanding of the items.

Špilberk also serves as an art gallery. There is a fairly ho-hum collection of Renaissance paintings: all heavy religious pieces and dour portraits. The collection of Czech modernism is slightly more interesting with Šima, Filla and loads of Antonín Procházka. There are also rooms dedicated to examples of 1920s and 30s architecture and design, including a map of where to find the works in Brno. Among the architects featured is Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, whose Villa Tugendhat is discussed below.

At the moment, the castle is also host to an exhibit of Czech Baroque with a range of pieces from the religious to the everyday. Among the most noteworthy are the huge threadbare battle standards from the 18th century, an early German picture dictionary and a tiny finely carved crucifix 8mm by 5mm.

After all this culture you might want to clear your head, so go straight to the lookout tower. Or you might decide to skip the history lesson and simply take in the view. From here you can see the whole city and the gentle surrounding hills. But it’s not what’s above the castle but rather below that is the most interesting.

The casements are a series of former storage areas and prisons beneath the castle. Before you are allowed to roam the rooms, you are treated to a brief explanation (in Czech or English) of the various functions and history of these subterranean rooms. The grimmest detail is that many of the prisoners didn’t survive more than two months of confinement here. Špilberk certainly deserved its reputation as the harshest prison in the empire. Watch out for the puddle at the ticket office. This isn’t a burst pipe but groundwater seeping through the bricks.

In its depths you will find the fairly well-preserved remains of medieval monks as well as figures of note, including Baron Trenck who was also an inmate at Špilberk. He was imprisoned for insulting an imperial general.

Admittedly, the UNESCO listed building may seem quite plain when you first arrive, but the wonder of the space becomes apparent as soon as you descend the stairs into the main area. Rohe used an iron frame so as to dispense with the need for walls and to create greater space within the building.  Rohe favored the use of materials rather than art to decorate the place. The most notable example of this approach is the onyx wall in the living room, from which the Tugenhadt family enjoyed a sumptuous view of Brno, before they were forced to abandon their dream home because of Nazi persecution.

There is the Dalšický brewery at the restaurant, Zelená Kočka, which is closer to the city center and definitely more traditional. A sign of this is the ceramic beer mats, which they still use. They brew an 11° lager and 13° dark lager. The light lager is a typical pilsner with a slightly grainy pallet and a clean finish.

The most noteworthy beer from this trip was the wheat beer at Pegas Brewery. The beer has a distinct spicy nose with hints of nutmeg and a clove finish. The beer is served with lemon. As unique a taste as it was, I don’t think I could manage more than one. Pegas also brew lager, dark lager and 16° semi-dark lager.

If you are on a really tight budget then you will find plenty of fast food outlets around the town selling sausages, gyros and Chinese food.