There aren’t many places—at least ones that aren’t complete tourist traps—where you can refuel while dutifully showing visitors around the castle. U Zavěšenýho Kafe is just a few steps from Nerudova, so if you’re in the area, it’s an excellent choice for lunch or a beer. The old- fashioned décor (wooden benches and tables with lots more wood paneling on the walls) gives the place a cozy feel without feeling off-puttingly kitschy. You can also have fun showing off your knowledge of Czech culture by naming the historical cartoon figures from that crazy mural: I felt pretty smug when I spotted eccentric emperor Rudolf II. It is a bit dark inside but, hey, this is more pub-restaurant than café, which brings me back to my original misunderstanding.