Two things are absolutely essential when making an apple strudel (known as jablečný štrúdl or závin in Czech) – the dough and the apples. How do today's professional confectioners approach this traditional dessert and what can you learn about strudel in cookbooks from past centuries?
Apple strudel has as many levels of flavor as there are varieties of apples in Czechia. The dough itself also has several variations: You can wrap the filling in stretched, rolled, or boiled dough. The most frequently used type of dough is puff pastry.
Strudel: A 'whirlpool' with Ottoman origins
Strudel most likely came to Europe during the military campaigns of the Ottomans. Its origins can be traced to the Balkans and Hungary, which fell under the Ottoman rule for centuries. This is how strudel made its way to the heart of the Habsburg Monarchy in Vienna, where local pastry chefs began to fill and roll it as is still done today. The German word strudel translates as "whirlpool," and refers to the baking process.
The oldest preserved, handwritten recipe for the pastry is Mülch Raimb Strudl (milk cream strudel) which dates back to a cookbook from 1696. Countless recipes for sweet and savory strudels were born in Austro-Hungarian cuisine over time, and strudel dough was also used as an ingredient in soups. The standout remains the Viennese apple strudel – a star of aristocratic salons, which eventually became popular in country kitchens as well.
The pastry chefs from Prague's Myšák confectionary take us through each step of their secret recipe, in order to give you the best combination of fruit, nuts, and buttery puff pastry.
STRUDEL SHORTCUT: Making homemade puff pastry (in Czech listové těsto) is quite the chore. You can also buy pre-made puff pastry online from Myšák Cukrárna.
ingredients
Puff pastry consists of two parts: the dough portion or détrempe, and the fat block or beurrage.
method
Puff pastry
BAKER'S TIP Pay attention to temperature. A fat block that's too soft won't form the correct sheeting, while a hard cube can cause dough to crack and may leak during baking. The dough portion should be cold, as warm dough speeds up the softening of the butter.
Filling
BAKER'S TIP Take the chilled puff pastry out of the fridge the moment you have the filling ready and work quickly, because the pastry should be pliable and cold so it doesn't melt under your hands.
Baking
More strudel tips from the pastry chefs at Myšák
Recipe courtesy of Ambiente confectioners Jiří Marhold, Marie B. Svobodová, Kulinarisches Erbe
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