Neighborhood guide: Modřany is a lively and liveable outer 'burb

Over the last two decades, Modřany has been steadfastly working to transform its image from that of a scruffy outer borough straddling the Vltava’s right bank to a sought-after residential haven with numerous new cafes, restaurants, and unique cultural offerings.

Following the 2002 floods, many of the neighborhood’s buildings were destroyed, opening the way for developers to swoop in and help the area rebrand. This steady flow of investments, including several public transport extensions providing faster links to the city center, has breathed fresh life into this sleepy southern district, making it one of Prague’s most up-and-coming locations. 

But long-time residents can attest that Modřany has not lost its original small-town vibe despite being annexed to the capital some 50 years ago. While new developments certainly stand out, there is much more worth exploring here. 

The settlement of "Modřiluhy,” an old name referring to a place built on top of marshlands, was first mentioned in 1088. However, with the discovery of a pagan burial ground, historians suspect several different tribes started settling along the riverbank as far back as the 6th century BC.

When it joined Prague, Modřany had deep industrial ties. Today, its focus is on its burgeoning residential communities.

Modřany is undeniably evolving and expanding at a lightning pace. Today, you can easily get to the center by tram within 30 minutes. The neighborhood will also eventually have its station along the metro’s new Line D, which broke ground last year after long delays.  

The waterfront promenade – which runs past the historic Modřany railway station and is part of the city’s A2 cycle route stretching from Zbraslav to Troja – is a magnet for joggers, bikers, skaters, and power walkers. A slight detour from the cycle path sits the longest legal graffiti wall in Prague. The Belárie forest is also nearby as is the “Archbishop Vineyard,” which provides a panoramic overview of the whole neighborhood.   

While the area has seen several new housing developments spring up, the neighborhood still boasts some of the city’s more affordable rental deals with costs averaging 373 CZK per square meter, or roughly 22,000 CZK for a 60 sqm flat in one of the numerous panel housing blocks that dot the neighborhood.

If you want to consider investing in one of the new housing estates, you’ll have plenty to choose from. Several of the neighborhood’s tired and neglected sites have gone through a transformation in recent years. For instance, Modřany’s sugar factory was redeveloped into a prime housing estate. 

With this comprehensive urban design project – including the Modřanka Residence, the low-rises Elča and Emča, and the scaled apartment buildings Rarach and Hübner A and B – the brownfield was reimagined into a vibrant new neighborhood.

With its proximity to the family-heavy suburbs of Jinonice and Průhonice, the area is a burgeoning epicenter for private schools, including the Austrian Gymnasium, which was completed in 2015 along Na Cikorce and Československého exilu streets. Down the tram line in Libuš is the Prague British International School, and Wonderland Academy. Basis International School Prague is also on the tram 17 line in Podolí, while Sunny Canadian, is located in nearby Jesenice u Prahy-Osnice.  

Many of Modřany’s newest additions like the Točná children’s playground and Kindergarten Mydlinky, which is nestled between K Beránku, Lešetínská and Dolnocholupická streets, are testament to the neighborhood’s escalating family needs. 

While its shopping options are still evolving, the neighborhood does offer a few options where residents can pick up necessary sundries, like OC Modřany and OC Vltava, which includes a supermarket, fitness center and other small shops. 

A little further out in Libuš is SAPA, Prague’s “Little Hanoi,” which spreads over 86 acres on what used to be a former poultry farm. In addition to specialty food shops and stands, you’ll also find restaurants, a space for childcare, meetings, and social events. There is even a Buddhist temple located there.      

Modřany’s gastro scene is also quickly emerging. The current choices hint at exciting future possibilities, especially as the area becomes more accessible from the center with expanding public transit connections.

Spicing up the neighborhood’s food-and-drink choices are the relatively recent arrivals of eM3 Coffee, a spot that has become quite popular with the remote-work crowd who love a good blend and other sweet delights, and Jemný Bistro, which offers family brunch and a children’s corner with babysitters during the day and live music on Friday nights.  

Chorvatská rybí restaurace "DECO" serves authentic Croatian cuisine and seasonal dishes. And if you are craving Italian, Modřany has that, too: Sasyre promises the perfect Neapolitan pizza, homemade pasta and tiramisu.

Kino Modřanský Biograf, which first opened in 1919 showing silent black-and-white films, is a central meeting point for many in the neighborhood, popular not only for its current movie listings but also for its adjacent bistro. 

The abundant surrounding greenery, offering a network of heavily traveled hiking paths, and ancient marshlands, contribute to Modřany’s reputation for having some of the cleanest air in Prague, attracting a new generation of young families to this leafy suburb.

When it comes to sports, the neighborhood also has a lot to offer. In addition to its cycle and hiking paths, Modřany is equipped with tennis and badminton courts as well as two well-loved spots to play a round of golf – one for adults (Hodkovicky golf course) and one for kids (Pirates Park). You can practice your swing while enjoying lovely views of the Vyšehrad fortress – an ideal combination.   

As it further sheds its rough exterior, Modřany will no doubt continue to entice more and more people to join the ranks of its flourishing “small town” community, one that embraces high architectural standards, environmental friendliness, and a love and respect for nature.