In the Czech kitchen: Make a rich, slow-cooking tomato gravy

Marek Janouch, chef of Kuchyň at Prague Castle, has shared his secret recipe for a classic Czech tomato sauce to serve with beef and bread dumplings.

Ambiente

Written by Ambiente Published on 20.07.2024 17:22:00 (updated on 23.07.2024) Reading time: 3 minutes

In most Czech households, you will find it on the dining table; it’s also a staple on menus in school cafeterias. Rajská omáčka (tomato sauce) is a classic accompaniment beloved by Czechs for its ability to coat bread dumplings deliciously or offer a savory bath to meat-stuffed peppers.

Marek Janouch, chef of Kuchyň at Prague Castle, has shared his secret sauce recipe with us, the basis of which is quality ingredients. This is doubly true when choosing the meat because an authentic Czech tomato sauce requires a cut of quality beef shoulder or neck. Carrots, celery, and parsley are chopped into the base in a 2:1:1 ratio, with the carrots giving the tomato its desired sweetness and color, as do the thoroughly roasted cubes of root vegetables, which caramelize and enhance the complex flavor of the sauce. 

It’s important to note that the onions should only be added to the finished base. If the onions were sautéed with the root vegetables, they would likely burn while the vegetables remained raw. The roasted vegetables should be lightly dusted with sugar and mixed with a high-quality tomato purée or ripe tomatoes (depending on the season). After the mixture is cooked through, the stock and whole cinnamon stick is added; just remember to remove before blending the sauce.

Janouch's recipe requires a whole lemon, carefully peeled and left to cook in the sauce in order to release both the sour and pleasantly bitter flavors. The lemon flesh, stripped of its white skin, is then halved, fried with sugar, and blended with the sauce, which is later strained through a colander.

Finally, the sauce is flavored with lemon juice and a spice blend of allspice, black pepper, and bay leaves, which are dry-fried in a pan to develop their aroma and covered with stock or water. The liquid is reduced, strained, and poured into the sauce as a flavor enhancer. Gingerbread is also grated into the sauce for flavor and thickness.

Tomato sauce (rajská omáčka) by Kuchyň

Serves 4-5

ingredients

  • 1 kg of whole beef (neck, peeled shoulder, or chuck)
  • 100 g lard
  • 100 g celery, diced
  • 180 g carrots, diced
  • 100 g parsley, diced
  • 200 g onion, finely chopped
  • 1 lemon (pulp, without rind)
  • 250 g tomato puree
  • 250 g tomatoes (if ripe and in season, otherwise use purée)
  • Splash of vinegar, to taste
  • 1.5 l beef stock
  • Sugar (if you don't use fresh tomatoes)
  • 4 balls of allspice
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 6 black peppercorns
  • 1 larger cinnamon stick
  • 150 g of gingerbread
  • 100 g butter
  • Vinegar and salt, for seasoning

chef's tip

Rajská omáčka is typically served warm, with a slice of beef and bread dumplings (knedlíky). However, it can also be served with meatballs, stuffed peppers, or a side of pasta or rice.

instructions

  • 1.Season the beef with salt and pepper in a large casserole and sear it on all sides in lard. Then, remove the meat from the casserole.
  • 2.Next, fry the vegetables in the fat. Once it starts to brown, add the onions and sauté.
  • 3.When the vegetables and onions are sufficiently browned, add the chopped lemon flesh, the purée and, if using, the chopped tomatoes. Drizzle with vinegar, return the meat to the pot, and pour in the stock.
  • 4.Add the cinnamon and spices, wrapped in a piece of cheesecloth so that you can easily remove it once it’s cooked.
  • 5.Cook until tender on the stovetop, or cover and bake in the casserole in a preheated oven at 180°C for about 90 minutes.
  • 6.Once the meat is tender, remove it. Remove the cinnamon and the spice bag. Blend the sauce until smooth.
  • 7.Finally, grate the gingerbread into the sauce (you don't have to use all of it, add it gradually and taste), soften it with butter, and add salt or sweeten it to taste.

In the Czech Kitchen is a weekly column written in cooperation with Ambiente’s culinary experts. Established in 1995, the Prague-based collective of pubs, restaurants, and fine-dining outlets has transformed the Czech culinary landscape and contributed to the widespread awareness of quality food service and production in Czechia. Follow their socials or book your table at www.ambi.cz.

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