Tastes of Tel-Aviv and Jerusalem give Prague's Jewish quarter new culinary cred

Prague’s Jewish quarter is one of the city’s most ancient districts, home to Europe’s oldest active synagogue, teeming with tourists on any given day. But aside from King Solomon’s, a local institution serving bagels and pastrami since the nineties, the area surrounding Široka and Maiselova streets is starved for authentic eats — something that’s slowly begun to change.

Two newly opened restaurants are not only bringing new dining options to the heart of Josefov but reconnecting the area with its culinary heritage.

Koblianidze who hails from a Georgian wine-producing family helped to start the original Whiskey bar in Tel Aviv in 2016 and was instrumental in the opening of its Prague branch. Was it important for the owners to set up shop on the street of Kafka’s birthplace and the Golem’s attic?

“Let’s just say it wasn’t disputed,” says Koblianidzewho adds that choice of location was largely based on the Czech capital’s vast historic appeal. “Prague as a city is in itself equivalent to a museum on an unimaginable scale.”   

An Israeli architect designed the Czech franchise, an underground space that Koblianidze says “communicates a certain Prague ambiance.” Native touches include wooden tables styled after those found in traditional Israeli wineries.

While the food here isn’t kosher, the Prague menu offers a close replica to that of its Tel-Aviv sibling (just fewer tomatoes and more potatoes). “The recipes come from a kosher menu but are adapted to the European palette by size and taste preferences,” says Koblianidze.

The menu centers on fish and dry-aged steaks grilled over charcoal, complemented by wine (including Israeli labels), whiskey-infused cocktails, and a staggering 1,000 whiskeys representing practically every notable distiller in the world. Classic Irish and Scottish distillers as well as craft distillers from Israel, India, Japan, and, the Czech Republic can be sampled via themed “tasting journeys.” Diners can purchase bottles to take home.

The restaurant aims to create a bridge not only between cultures but between food and whiskey, even incorporating the spirit into desserts and aioli. “It’s rare to find someone who won’t like at least one of these whiskeys,” says Koblianidze, who adds, “If you come for the food stay for the whiskey, if you come from the whiskey stay for the food.”

“After Nofech, we knew we wanted to have something in the center of Prague,” he says. “In the meantime we [opened a stand] at Manifesto and it was a big success, and then this place opened and it’s perfect because its right in the middle of the Jewish quarter.” While tourists make up a sizeable part of its clientele a number of locals know The Hummus Bar from Manifesto Market.

“About 60-70 percent of our customers are tourists but at least 30 percent are locals so we didn’t want to exaggerate with the prices,” says Perets.

The rebuilt kitchen, bar, and new sign weren’t the only adjustments to the Kafka space. Perets has created a vibrant menu of Mediterranean flavors that feel right at home amid the Italian-designed decor.

“Israelis and Jewish people who come to us will immediately recognize these flavors,” says Perets, who adds that he ate many of these dishes as a child. “But of course the food is for everyone.”