Prague's Vyšehrad offers some relaxing sightseeing away from the gridlocked crowds

The word of the year, at least for Prague and major cities in Europe, is “overtourism.” A combination of discount flights, shared-accommodation apps and online must-see lists has led the main sights to be so crowded that it is virtually impossible to see anything.

But places just slightly off the beaten track have very few tourists and often lots to see and do. Top on the list of unjustly ignored places to bring visiting friends, or just go and see by yourself in peace, is Vyšehrad, the higher castle. It is easily reachable from the C-line metro station of the same name.

The high brick walls from when Vyšehrad was a fortified military post now provide lovely photo vantage points looking at bridges across the Vltava river with Prague Castle in the background.

There are several green fields for relaxing and numerous eateries offering everything from ice cream and chips to sit-down meals, at prices lower than in the more touristed center. The spaces are open enough that it is easy to sit with friends for a picnic.

The popular Hospůdka Na Hradbách, located along the defensive walls behind the Leopold Gate, has an outdoor beer garden with Balkan food on the grill. A little more upscale is Cafe Citadela, located next to a small vineyard closer to the Vltava. Small snack bars also dot the area.

On the stone cliff leading down toward the river are some evocative ruins called Libuše’s Bath, but actually they are much more recent.

Heading down this path, past a small chapel. eventually takes you to the Brick Gate. From April to October you can get inside the fortress’ walls from 9:30 am to 5 pm. (From November to March the last tour is at 4 pm.)

When you exit the Gorlice, you can head toward the large Basilica of Sts Peter and Paul, unmissable due to its huge spires. But before you get there, you will pass an odd stone column broken into three pieces.

This is called the Devil’s Column, and there is a tale that a demon named Zardan threw the pieces in the ground after losing a bet with a local priest. A mural in the basilica depicts the legend.

Keys to get in can be borrowed from the Parish Office at K Rotundě 100/10 from 10 am to 3 pm. Instructions, in Czech with a little English, are on the site’s door, and the office can me reached in advance by email at info@kkvys.cz.

The field to the left side of the church has four very large statues. These depict four pairs of legendary figures, including Princess Libuše and her husband, Přemysl. They originally stood at the Palacký Bridge and were moved during World War II.

The neo-Gothic Basilica of Sts Peter and Paul itself was built between 1887 and 1903, making it relatively modern compared to other Prague churches.

Still, the church has some items of interest. In one of the niches near main the entrance in a glass and gold case is a shoulder bone allegedly from St Valentine, the person remembered on Valentine’s Day.

Also near the entrance but on the other side is the stone coffin of St Longinus, who according to Christian tradition was present at the Crucifixion. The lid and bones were lost hundreds of years ago, perhaps during the Hussite Wars.

A long-standing tradition is that burning a candle in front of the painting will ensure a healthy baby, and young women can still often be seen praying by the painting.

There is also a treasury room with religious clothing, chalices and other valuable objects.

There are also some things to see outside the fortress. If you come from the Vyšehrad metro stop on the C line, there is a tree planted in 1987 to promote the artificial language Esperanto, with a stone that has an inscription in that language.

There is also a sculpture with a glass pyramid on a metal base called Pyramid 04, by modern artist Marián Karel.

Heading a little closer to Vyšehrad, hidden in a parking lot behind the Holiday Inn, is a communist-era bronze sculpture of a mother and daughter in rather sheer outfits. It comes from the era of Normalization, when every public construction project had to include a piece of art.

Going down from Vyšehrad by the hard-to-find steps behind the wall just opposite the entrance to Basilica of Sts Peter and Paul, you will encounter some of Prague’s Cubist houses. Three are together on the waterfront on Rašínovo nábřeží 42/6, 47/8 and 71/10. Another is at Libušina 49/3.

Exiting from the Brick Gate, you will find two more Cubist buildings on Neklanova 98/30 and Neklanova 56/2. All of them are the work of architect Josef Chochol except for Neklanova 56/2, which is by Antonín Belada. They were built between 1912 and ’14.

A bit far from the fortress’s exits but still part of the greater Vyšehrad neighborhood is the Vyšehrad-Praha train station (Nádraží Praha-Vyšehrad) at Svobodova 86/2. The abandoned Art Nouveau building, built in 1872 and closed in 1960, is in very poor technical condition.

It has been listed as cultural heritage since 2001, and was sold to private company in 2007, but never reopened.