Cross the Czech border and retreat into Austrian food, nature, and spas

You don’t have to venture far beyond South Bohemia to experience first-class spa and wellness hotels embedded in the pristine natural surroundings where hiking trails wind through hilly landscapes and highlands encompassing castle ruins and charming villages.

Less than 50 km from the Český Krumlov, the jewel of South Bohemia is Bad Leonfelden, once a trade route crossroads merging Bohemia and the Danube, now a perfect weekend starting point for exploring the forests, peaks, and vistas of the Sumava borderlands.

The journey to Upper Austria is a pleasing mix of broad countryside expanses and narrow side roads through thick greenery, making traveling by car a must. We set out for our destination, the Falkensteiner Genuss & Wohlfühlhotel Mühlviertel in Bad Leonfelden, navigating the hilly terrain in a Mercedes-Benz EQE 350 4MATIC SUV.

We’ve compiled a suggested itinerary with tips for where to go, what to see, and how to savor the region’s mountain magic.

We set off along 5. Května from Náměstí Republiky, continuing onto D1/E65, and Route 3 to Route 163. Switching into sport mode on the long stretches of highway made for a smooth-sailing ride, and as the car’s charge dropped, going into Eco mode optimized energy use. The Active Lane Change Assist made lane changes less stressful during busy moments on the highway.

Once you firmly leave Prague, Route 3 will delight you for most of the two-hour and 45-minute drive. The landscape is dotted with textured patterns of canola fields and crop squares, grazing horses, and cattle.

Tiny Czech villages like Hostišov will greet you with endearing houses and rustic life spilling onto side roads. You can adapt your route to fit whatever pace you prefer—the intelligent navigation can calculate the fastest and most convenient route, considering available charging options along the way, or suggest alternative routes. Pulling into tight spots in smaller villages is simple with the Mercedes’ rear-axle steering.

The acceleration was quick yet smooth, effortlessly controlled by the SUV to maintain a preset speed and distance from the vehicle ahead. The quiet hum of the electric car was barely noticeable as we glided along.

To extend your journey and fit in a proper lunch stop, Tábor is an enchanting little town filled with trendy cafes, cozy pubs, and immense history. Switch from Route 3 onto Route 19, about 125 km from Bad Leonfelden, and find yourself in a time warp back to the Middle Ages. (Food stops can be located with a search on the screen—shortly before and after the Austrian border, those options were mostly fast food!)

A 40-minute stop will be enough to get eating and sightseeing ticked off, but there are many attractions in Tábor if you want to extend your stay. The Hussites founded the town in 1420 and have been well-preserved ever since.

Meander to the main square, where the Dean Church of the Transfiguration of Jesus is a testament to the Bohemian Renaissance style. A fountain and a statue of Jan Žižka, a great Hussite leader, mark the center.

History buffs can visit the Hussite Museum or venture down into the underground tunnels, originally the cellars of town citizens. The Tábor Botanical Garden is the second-oldest in the Czech Republic and contains European and exotic flora to admire.

We stopped by Kafe Knihy Jednota for a cup of coffee and to browse the beautifully curated selection of books, journals, artwork, and knick-knacks for literary lovers, and then we were on the road again.

Upper Austria is known for its array of thermal springs and health oases, with many spa hotels dotted throughout the region. Bad Leonfelden has been a renowned spa center since 1962, with bog baths directly from the surrounding forests using peat. It remains a burgeoning tourist destination, with four-star hotels cropping up recently.

Once you’re through the border, the Falkensteiner Genuss & Wohlfühlhotel Mühlviertel in Bad Leonfelden is within close reach. This hotel, in particular, boasts an array of spa services, nestled in the rolling Austrian hinterland, convenient pit stops, and nearby day trips.

Treat yourself to a luxurious stay in one of their rooms or suites. Wooden furnishings with a modern flair maintain a typical Austrian cabin feel, with views overlooking the country’s green expanse. Spend your first day enjoying the all-inclusive lunch and dinner at the hotel, attending a workout class, receiving a beauty treatment or massage, using Acquapura Natur SPA and garden facilities, and lounging in the bar after hours.

If you want to get out and about for dinner, Friestadt is a small but charming town just a 17-minute drive east from the hotel, which contains the wonderful Freistädter Brauhaus. This typical Austrian brewery serves up mouth-watering and authentic wiener schnitzel. Charging stations for your car are available in the town if needed. With over a 200-kilometer range, you can charge your car in just 15 minutes.

After being pampered on Day One, we were relaxed and ready to explore the rich region of Mühlviertel, which surrounds the hotel from all directions.

If you’re visiting in the summertime, the Lobenstein castle ruins are a 14-minute drive southwest of Bad Leonfelden and can be combined with a hike. The medieval castle showcases a heptagonal tower and will grant you stunning views over Oberneukirchen - but that’s just one of many hiking options. 

There are dozens of walking routes surrounding the hotel itself and beyond, with the Bohemian forest sprawling through the Mühlviertel. If you’re not so much into hiking but love to be surrounded by nature in comfort, take a 50-minute drive to the Thauerböck Organic Distillery and Farm, set amidst streams, mountains, and cozy rest areas. Sip on some whiskey as you kick back and take in the “green diamond” of the Mühlviertel in the Mühlviertler Alm Freistadt tourist region.

Avid golf enthusiasts can play on various courses in Mühlviertel, and Genuss & Wohlfühlhotel Mühlviertel guests can enjoy discounted green fees.

Don’t forget that within a 30-minute drive of Bad Leonfelden is the city of Linz, where baroque buildings line the riverside and a striking cathedral claims to be the largest church in Austria. For an upscale dining experience here, head to Verdi Restaurant & Einkehr, where you can take in views over Linz and enjoy meticulously prepared food such as their lamb saddle with black olives or artichoke tortellini.

Your journey back to Czechia doesn’t mean the end of your retreat—far from it. There are many attractions on the way back that you can visit to extend your trip.

After charging the car at the station conveniently located near the car park at Falkensteiner Genuss & Wohlfühlhotel Mühlviertel, we were rearing to go with the rooftop down back along the country roads. We tested changing the recuperation level in the car, which made driving and braking more convenient for the journey.

Instead of taking Route 3 straight back to Prague, divert slightly via Route 1622 and Route 160 towards Český Krumlov, a popular destination in the South Bohemia region. Its 13th-century castle with an 11-hectare garden is well worth exploring and snapping some photos of, and you can enjoy panoramic views of the old town from the top.

For a less-touted but beautiful alternative off the beaten path, take Routes 161 and 163 to Lipno. This resort village is popular with Czechs and tourists, especially in the summer. The Mercedes-Benz EQE 350 4MATIC SUV’s navigation shows charging station options and dozens spread along all routes.

Return to Prague feeling invigorated and relaxed after a three-day trip to some of the highlights of Czechia and Upper Austria. The locations are all the more easy and affordable to access with an electric car, and the options for your travels are endless. Our suggested itinerary can be adapted using the navigation system, with a surprising number of destinations achievable in just a long weekend.